How to surf these types of waves?

Question

I'm not the best surfer but definitely keen to get better. My local beach is horrible to surf on and it's a huge hassle to get to another one (too young to drive). The beach/waves were I live I would describe as choppy, powerful waves. Powerful when they hit you but because of a sandbar/deep spot beach that starts out very far where they first break before they go back into swells/half pissy waves. They are pretty powerful in the whitewater but it's because there are no breaks between sets I've never been able to paddle out past the whitewater on a decent day. And something I've noticed after going to some better beaches recently is on a good beach the waver is flat/near flat then a swell comes in and it is obvious. On my beach you can feel the water level changing a lot even when there seems to be no obvious swell. So how can I surf these types of waves? I'm thinking a 5'10 fish type board after some advice and a tryout from a surf shop but (and this is what I really want to do) would I be able to catch one of these waves right out in the green and surf it all the way in through all the deep spots where the wave kind of stops? Could I do that on a fish or would I need a fast short-board or something and ride the wave in at a diagonal line to keep up speed? Would a fish be all good? Is it even possible? And how can I get out into the green in those conditions? Im pretty small so I don't think I could duck dive unless I go on a light as board (which I can't ride). By the way I'm 13, I think about 5'1ish and 100lbish, maybe a little more. Thanks for any help.
And my beach has no rips or anything like that, very safe.
The board I've got now is now is a 7'2 fibreglass something, probably a fun-board but it might as well be a long-board for me. I've never been able to catch green waves on it, I had a lesson on the 5'10 fish and did better but in smoother waves (smaller too).

Answer 1

Little buddy, I think I understand your question, but I really don't think that anyone can give you an honest answer on line. First of all, I am sure that conditions vary at your local beach to some extent. They do even at the most consistent breaks. So, you may have to learn how take take advantage of diiferent tides and wind directions that give you the optimum chance and surfing. Also, the fact that you can't get outside is more a function of your ability than it is of either your board or the waves. Believe me, there are surfers who can get just about any board outside in any conditions. I have been surfing for 43 years and both seen and done it.



The only way to get better, at your particular break (wherever that may be) is to surf it. Lessons are best, but like you noted, you took lessons at a more "beginner friendly" beach. You need some help at the place where you surf most often. That should come from a professional instructor, or a family member or friend who is an experienced surfer. Your problems can only be solved in the water, not on-line.



Get to know the other folks who surf there. Try to watch what they do. Be polite and friendly and try to learn from the older more experienced surfers there. And talk to the folks in the closest surf shops. If anyone can recommend the right board for local conditions, they can. Folks out here in "cyber-space" don't know you or your local break, and can only guess at what things are like. Good Luck.

Answer 2

The fact that you can't get out out to the line up is a big factor. You're not really surfing the wave if your just catching whitewash. I would stick with your 7'2 until you can get out to the line up. Changing boards will not matter until you can start really riding the wave. Count the waves on each set, configure, and paddle out during the lull. There has to be lull. Your break isnt that consistent every day. If you have a 30 sec lull at least you should be able to get out to the line up espically with a 7'2. If not start swimming in a pool 3-4x a wk to build up the muscles and your endurance. Going with a smaller high performance board is not the answer for the next 2-3mos. Get wet.

Answer 3

each and every wave is diverse, so this is perplexing to declare. first element of say is waves bypass left or suitable, or they a-physique (bypass the two strategies...hah). Waves can variety in length and length, aswell as steepness. No wave is alike. some waves merely fall apart, others have effective and heavy barrels. Waves that fall apart can variety dramatically, waves that barrel can variety dramatically. Barreling waves would be suited-to-backside, yet waves that barrel do no longer inevitably bypass suited-to-backside.

Answer 4

I would go for a bigger board possibly a quad, I always think of a Fish for soft, small fun waves.